Culture Trip: Why the Hutongs in Beijing Is My Favorite Area in the City

Today's newsletter holds a special place in my heart as I introduce you to an area I called home in Beijing for several years: the Beijing Hutongs. I'll begin with some essential Chinese vocabulary related to this topic, and I encourage you to experience this newsletter in Chinese by watching the video below. Shot a few years ago by my husband in one of the most renowned hutong areas near Gulou, this video captures the essence of the neighborhood.

今天的内容比较特别，我将会聊一聊自己生活了很多年的地方：北京的胡同。除了文字，我也放了一个关于胡同的视频。视频是几年前我老公在鼓楼拍摄的，在这儿大家可以看到胡同里独有的风景和生活方式。

After the video, I'll share some of my favorite spots—areas, places, and restaurants—to explore when you visit. Save this newsletter for future reference if you’re planning a trip to Beijing.

视频之后我会分享一些自己在北京时喜欢去的地方，将来哪天如果你要去北京旅游的话可能用得着。

Try to catch these words while listening:

• 北京 běijīng - Beijing

• 胡同 hútòng - hutong (narrow alleyways/streets)

• 四合院 sìhéyuàn - siheyuan (a traditional Chinese walled courtyard)

• 传统 chuántǒng - traditional

• 鼓楼 gǔlóu - The Drum and Bell Towers / Gulou (a famous area in Beijing’s Dongcheng district)

• 元朝 yuán cháo - Yuan Dynasty

• 建筑 jiànzhù - architecture, building

• 艺术家 yìshùjiā - artist

• 变化 biànhuà - change

The hutongs in Beijing weren't the first place I lived in the city, but they quickly became my favorite area. Located in the heart of Beijing, the hutongs offer a stark contrast to the wide and busy roads found elsewhere in the city. Here, you'll find narrow alleyways known as hutongs and traditional Chinese courtyards called siheyuans instead of high-rise buildings. A hutong consists of several siheyuans, each of which comprises multiple houses and typically has its entrance facing the hutong. Sometimes a siheyuan belongs to one family, but other times it is shared by multiple people.

刚到北京时我并不住在胡同里，但后来这儿却变成了我最喜欢的地方。位于北京市中心的胡同，是一条条窄窄的小巷子，与城市里其他繁忙的现代化道路形成了鲜明的对比。胡同两边坐落着很多四合院。四合院是一种中国传统建筑，它的格局是一个院子四面都有房屋。有的四合院独属于一家人，也有的是几家共享。

The first hutongs in Beijing were built during the Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368) and were significantly expanded in later dynasties. Walking through these streets can feel like being transported to a different era. However, in recent decades, the hutongs have changed significantly. Many buildings have been renovated, while several others were torn down and rebuilt. I had to move within the hutongs twice due to these changes, so if you rent a house here, you never really know how long you'll be able to stay.

北京胡同最早起源于元朝（1271年-1368年），后来明清两代在此基础上进行了扩建。有着悠久历史的胡同，走在其中让你有一种穿越的感觉。不过近几十年的胡同一直在发生着巨大的变化，很多老建筑在不断地被拆除或翻修，也由于这个原因我不得不搬了两次家。胡同的租房生活就是这样，很多时候自己能住多久都是不确定的。

Still, I don't think there's anywhere else in Beijing I would have enjoyed living more. The hutongs have a completely different atmosphere compared to the rest of Beijing. Even with the recent changes, they feel more historical than other areas, but they are much more than just places of historical significance. The area has attracted numerous artists who have opened shops, and many of the city's entrepreneurs have chosen this area to start their businesses. Art shops, unique restaurants, charming coffee shops, interesting bars, and small concert and event venues line these streets, giving the area a traditional atmosphere with a modern and unique vibe.

即使经过不断的改造，胡同仍然有它的历史韵味。也正是这个原因吸引了人们在这里开文创店，餐厅，咖啡店，酒吧等等。很多艺术家也喜欢把工作室开在在胡同里。现代与传统的碰撞让胡同变得更加有魅力。

Sadly, many of these places have disappeared due to the ongoing reconstructions, often just as I discover a new favorite spot. Yet, for every closure, a new business springs up, keeping the area dynamic and fresh.

由于北京胡同的改造工程，使得我经常会在某一天突然发现自己喜欢的去处消失了，与此同时一批批的新商铺在涌现出来。

Despite the challenges and constant changes, the hutongs remain a special place in Beijing—a blend of tradition and innovation that is unlike anything else you may find in the city.

无论如何变化，胡同仍旧是北京城里最特别的存在。

And as promised, here are my favorite spots in the Hutongs (I’ll provide Google Maps link if available, however some of these places cannot be found on Google Maps):

Awesome dumplings: Mr. Shi's Dumplings or Xianlaoman

Michelin recommended, cheap and delicious Sichuan noodle restaurant: Pangmei

Tasty Chinese BBQ: Qiuhongjin Snack Bar or Long Time Ago

Great courtyard restaurant with Yunnan food: Dali Courtyard

The most famous Mantou in Beijing: Gulou Mantou

Best Indian restaurant: Santoor

One of the best burgers in Beijing: Side Street

A beautiful park next to Houhai Lake: Prince Gong Mansion

A nice shopping street with lots of cute coffee shops, yummy restaurants and some bars: Wudaoying Hutong

The best view of the hutongs (and the Forbidden City) from above: Jingshan Park

The best place to see how Chinese communities live in the hutongs: The Drum and Bell Towers

A nice bar with good food: Modernista

Best bakery in the hutongs: The Bake Shop

These are just some of my recommendations, if you’re visiting Beijing or already living there, and you need more recommendations, just shoot me a message, I’d be glad to help!

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